Mountain Paths and Ancient Ink
Last week, I embarked on an unforgettable journey to Buscalan Village, nestled in the mountains of Kalinga in the Philippines. This adventure took me on a series of bus rides from Baguio to Sagada, Sagada to Bontoc, and then Bontoc to Bugnay. From there, we hopped on a habal-habal (a local motorcycle) for a thrilling ride up the mountains, and finally hiked for almost an hour to reach our destination. Alternatively, we could have taken a zipline, which would have added an extra thrill to the adventure.
Upon our arrival, we were warmly greeted by the villagers. One of the highlights of the trip was meeting Apo Whang-od, the legendary tattoo artist. At over 100 years old, she remains a vibrant and integral part of her community, known for her traditional hand-tapped tattoos. While I didn’t get a tattoo from her directly, I had the honor of receiving one from one of her apprentices, who used the traditional technique passed down through generations.
The village itself was a picture of simplicity and warmth. The locals live modestly but are incredibly welcoming. We brought candies to distribute to the children and to the kids at heart, which brought smiles and joy to many faces.
One memorable encounter was meeting the oldest person in Buscalan, a remarkable individual aged 109. It’s incredible to witness the longevity and vitality of the people here, seemingly untouched by the fast pace of modern life.
During our stay, we were invited to a local feast and had the opportunity to try watwat, a traditional dish made of boiled meat, usually pork or carabao. The feast was a communal event, filled with laughter, music, and the rich culture of the Kalinga people.
The day after, we began our journey back home. This time, we opted for the zipline to descend the mountain. The zipline setup was quite ingenious — powered by a car with its wheel removed and replaced by rope. The ride was exhilarating, offering breathtaking views as we soared down.
Once we reached the bottom, we hopped on another habal-habal to get back to Bugnay. At Bugnay, we waited for the jeepney to take us back to Bontoc. While waiting, the local police officers offered us some Kalinga coffee, a warm gesture that highlighted the hospitality of the region.
When the jeepney finally arrived, we decided to ride on top, a choice that allowed us to fully appreciate the stunning beauty of the Cordillera mountains. The landscape was a tapestry of verdant hills, terraced fields, and misty valleys — a perfect backdrop for reflection as we headed home.
This entire adventure happened right before my birthday, making it an incredibly special experience. The journey to and from Buscalan was as enriching as the destination itself, filled with moments of awe, cultural immersion, and the simple joys of connecting with kind-hearted people.
